Hello! I decided to change the lamps in the chandelier, halogen 12v. 20w.G4 replace with LED.
The chandelier has 13 horns and two ranges: 6 in the outer and 7 in the inner.
I bought 6 Feron LB-403 12v 3w G4 LED lamps in the store and replaced the outer row. And I put one Uniel LED-JC 12v 2.5w G4 in the inner row.
After turning on the chandelier, literally a minute later one lamp fell and a few seconds later the second one, while the contacts were soldered and remained in the base, and the lamp itself became very hot. This happened with LB-403 12v. And LED-JC 12v burns perfectly, and there are no prerequisites for heating.
What needs to be changed to prevent this from happening?
We have answered the question many times about replacing G4 bulbs in a chandelier. Here is the most common question and answer.
The power source for G4 LED lamps should be a constant, well-stabilized current. We do not consider here the so-called G4 220 volt LED lamps that are on the market - we ourselves do not manufacture such lamps and do not advise anyone to buy them.
The inclusion of G4 LED lamps in a circuit with an electronic power supply for halogen lamps may have unpleasant consequences, including the event you described. This is indicated on the page of G4 LED lamps (below the products, subheading "Do I need to change the transformer?").
The fact that one lamp seems to work normally with halogen lamps is not an indicator. It's just that halogen lamps act as a ballast, they somewhat smooth out voltage peaks, but do not solve problems. This one lamp will fail relatively quickly - it will start flashing or simply go out. But it will probably work for a few months.
To you need to replace transformers with LED. This is the most correct and reliable solution.
Here is a non-recommended solution. We do not give a guarantee for this connection, but since the lamps are not ours, you should check the warranty conditions with your dealer. Try leaving one or two halogen lamps in each circuit, controlling the heating of the LED lamps. If there is no heating, you can leave it like that, but get ready to change it periodically LED lamp. If the lamps get warm, you need to definitely change the transformers.
Another review of LED lamps.
The impetus for writing a review was the fact that I could not find reviews for a similar product by searching the resource. When the review was half completed, I shoveled MySKU again (well, it can’t be!), And, nevertheless, I found . But what is written should not be lost. :)
I hope that I will help all owners of chandeliers with a similar form factor of light bulbs. Such lamps in the "halogen" version burn out quite often, they consume an appalling amount by modern standards, they consume electricity very inefficiently, and it is somewhat harder to find them in stores than the classic E14 and E27.
Can they be replaced with LEDs?
Let's take a closer look at the light bulb.
The first thing that catches your eye. Contrary to the established Chinese tradition (for the sake of saving space and money in silicone fills, there have already been reviews, to put a passive ballast from a quenching capacitor), in these lamps, to our joy, there is even a simple, but quite a driver. You can't see through the silicone well, and the tracks, apparently, cannot be traced at all, but you can see something.
We see, obviously, a PWM controller. We see the coil choke (which is good). Apparently, we see diodes.
Whether it's diodes, it's hard for me to say for sure, but the lamp is definitely non-polar. It works in exactly the same way, regardless of the polarity of the voltage supplied to its legs. This is a plus. This means that the lamp will work with any power source (including "electronic transformers" for halogen, classic low-frequency transformers, stabilized power supplies, etc.). 
On the reverse side we see a small ceramic capacitor, some kind of resistor and in the center of the composition - a polar capacitor as much as 100 microfarads. In the vastness of Ali, judging by the pictures of the goods, there are light bulbs with capacitors of a smaller capacity. There is only one principle here: the larger the capacitance of the smoothing capacitor, the less the lamp will flicker, the less harm it does to the eyes.
Let's compare this light bulb with a classic halogen 20W 12v 
Grab a caliper
Diameter: 
Two tenths of a millimeter. No one makes holes in the ceiling with such accuracy.
It can be argued that the diameter is the same.
Length: 
Half a millimeter. The error in the softness of silicone and glass sprues for halogens.
And they are the same length.
Now we turn from geometric measurements to electrical ones.
Source voltage 12.38V 
We measure current. A little over 90mA 
The total real power is 1.2 W.
Of course, there is no need to talk about any 3W from the title. And this is another unbreakable Chinese tradition. But that's not even bad. Since these honest three watts from under silicone would have to be put somewhere, but there are no radiators here. For the same reason, I think it’s not worth buying such lamps in the 6W version, they will shine brighter, and the thermal regime will be harder.
By the way, since we started talking, it's time to measure the temperature.
Meryl with a thermocouple, pressing it into the silicone with force.
I could not get more than 68 ° C, no matter how hard I tried. 
Hot, of course. But it could have been worse. They will live.
And finally, the main question.
Color comparison.
I put the camera in manual mode, I take both frames with the same parameters. I shoot from the same position on a tripod. 
First a halogen, then an inspectable light bulb.
There are no striking differences. And it's unexpected. The observed light bulb is slightly green (almost imperceptibly), the halogen is slightly brighter.
I, to be honest, expected either a vyryglazny "greenness", or yellowness, or (hello "Feron") a general blockage in the pink-purple area. No. In reality, it feels quite comparable to an incandescent paw.
Let's put it in a chandelier. 
I deliberately pressed the aperture and set a small shutter speed so that the frame turned out to be slightly darkened, but this way overexposures would not interfere.
In this frame, out of ten ceiling lamps, six are equipped with visible lamps, four with classic halogens. I assure you, if you do not look closely, there is practically no difference.
No flicker was detected by any of the methods, thanks to the 100uF capacitors.
After some thought, I decided that, perhaps, I would not change the four remaining halogens. I saved electricity. The efficiency of the chandelier has increased. And the spectrum in the room, after all, will be smoother.
Conclusion: An unexpectedly good product. It will successfully replace a halogen lamp in all respects: in size, in glow color, [almost] in glow intensity, in unpretentiousness to the power source. At the same time, it will consume electricity almost 17 (!) times less, it will not heat the air in the room. Yes, and you can touch, pick up and replace them simply by taking them with your fingers, without gloves and degreasers. :)
Yes, with such heating they are not eternal, but classic halogens die more often anyway. In almost 200 clean hours of operation, none of the six lamps showed signs of degradation.
PS: Despite the general tone of the review, no one provided me with anything and did not set any conditions. Everything was bought with my own money at full price, now even a little cheaper.
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I have a chandelier with halogen lamps 12V base G4 and with a transformer. Is it possible to replace all the halogens with LED G4 220v, and remove the transformer altogether?
Will the wires hold up? Thank you.
The problem is not the wires - the power of G4 LED lamps is up to 10 times lower, so wires from G4 halogens (if they are not completely rotted from overheating) are certainly suitable.
There are "products" on the market called 220 volt G4 LED lamps, but we would not recommend buying them. The dimensions of these lamps are so small that it is impossible to integrate a normal 220 volt driver into them. As a rule, in such lamps, a capacitor with a diode bridge is used instead of a driver, which leads to a doubling or even tripling of the actual power consumption and, as a result, to overheating and shortening the life of the lamps.
All of our G4 LED bulbs are rated for 12 volts DC (one model up to 30 volts). And they need a transformer that delivers 12 volts of well-stabilized direct current.
So you can't remove the transformer at all. As well as leaving the one you have now - it does not produce either 12 volts (strictly speaking) or direct current. You will have to change the transformer. But as a bonus, you will get a very durable “design” - with our transformers, G4 lamps work for a long time and stably.
Just keep in mind that LED transformers are significantly larger in size than those electronic components that are used with halogen lamps.
